Greater Victoria – Esquimalt

Communities of Greater Victoria
Esquimalt

Sitting just across the big blue Johnson St. bridge west of downtown Victoria is the municipality of Esquimalt, incorporated in 1912, with a population of around 20,000 (2009) .  Almost an island itself, it’s connected to Vancouver Island by a narrow stretch of land in which lies the boundary between Esquimalt and View Royal. To the west is Esquimalt Harbour, to the south the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and to the east Victoria across the water and north a long inlet called the Gorge.

The name Esquimalt is derived from the native Es-whoy-malth, which translates to “the place of shoaling waters”.  Long before Europeans settled the area, Coast Salish peoples lived here, their village was located on the eastern shores of Esquimalt Harbour, near what is now Ashe Head.

In 1790 Spanish explorer Don Manuel Quimper was the first European to enter Esquimalt Harbour; he named his discovery Puerto de Cordova after the 46th viceroy of New Spain.  But it was not to remain a Spanish port; in 1843 the Hudson’s Bay Company (HBC) Chief Factor James Dougles visited, seeking a new site for the company’s operations.  The Fort was established at Victoria, but Mr. Douglas saw agricultural potential in Esquimalt’s lands, and after signing treaties with local First Nations he established three farms; Viewfield, Craigflower and Constance Cove to supply Fort  Victoria and other HBC forts in the northwest.  The Craigflower farmhouse and Craigflower schoolhouse still exist as heritage sites.  By the mid-1860s, the farms were considered failures and abandoned, and the property sold off in small parcels.

Esquimalt contains a large, well protected harbour, and it is this harbour that accelerated settlement of the area.  Originally it was the British Royal Navy, recognizing the military value of the site that made use of the harbour.  The Royal Navy operated here from 1837 to 1905, and in 1865 Esquimalt replaced Valparaiso, Chile as the headquarters of the Royal Navy’s Pacific Squadron. Now the Esquimalt Harbour is home to Canada’s Pacific Naval Fleet, and Esquimalt’s Graving Dock; the largest non-military site for ship building and repair on the west coast.

The discovery of gold on the Fraser River in 1858 lured a flood of people who stopped at Fort Victoria for permits and supplies before setting off to make their fortunes.  Some of these people landed at Esquimalt harbour and never left, triggering the first building boom in the new community.  As the gold rush subsided, the town grew into a society defined largely by naval life and shipbuilding.  The original townsite has long since been engulfed by Canadian Forces Base Esquimalt.

CFB Esquimalt is Canada’s west coast naval base, and its role is to support the Joint Task Force Pacific Commander and the warships of the Canadian Pacific Fleet.  The base covers over 10,300 acres and employs approximately 4200 military and 2000 civilian personnel.  The base is the largest employer in the municipality and its contribution to the local economy is unsurpassed in the community.

The Esquimalt Graving Dock officially opened on July 1 1927.  Located in sheltered Skinner’s Cove it took six years to construct and at the time was the second largest in the world.  Now this federally owned and operated facility is the largest solid-bottom commercial drydock on the west coast of the Americas.  The EGD is available to any company or individual on a first come, first serve basis and all work carried out by private sector ship repair firms.

Before there existed any of the bridges that now link Esquimalt to Victoria and Saanich, it was a long arduous commute by land to Victoria, and this meant a slow pace of development for Esquimalt in the early days.  Now, of course, the commute to Victoria is speedy, there are several bridges that span the waterways, and almost the entire municipality has been developed.  In recent years there has been a push of redevelopment, particularly on the eastern shores overlooking Victoria’s harbour.  Previously overlooked as undesirable (undesirable waterfront?), there are now several well planned condominium developments with exciting views of the harbour and Victoria.  Due to Esquimalt’s well established infrastructure and amenities, and proximity to Victoria, it’s expected that the municipality will see continued redevelopment.  Demand for housing is high, and the challenge for Esquimalt will be to accommodate the demand without losing the small town ambiance or compromising on quality of life issues.

Neighborhoods in Esquimalt include Gorge Vale, Old Esquimalt, Saxe Point, Kinsmen Park and Rockheights.  These include a mix of housing ranging from apartments and condos, townhomes, multifamily and single family residences.  Because of CFB Esquimalt, the municipality has always provided a good supply of reasonably priced housing options suitable for the military and their families.  Of course, with all the oceanfront Esquimalt offers, there is also a plethora of waterfront and waterview properties.

There are a multitude of historic sites, parks and recreation sites in Esquimalt including:

CFB Esquimalt Naval and Military Museum – built in 1891, it chronicles the birth of Canada’s Navy on the west coast;

The Gorge Waterway Discovery Centre – is a marine educational centre giving visitors an amazing hands-on opportunity to explore the local ecology, particularly the waters around the Gorge Waterway. Interactive exhibits feature a touch tank and aquarium filled with organisms from the Gorge Waterway;

Highrock Park – also called Cairn Park, 17.5 acres of rocky knolls and natural meadows, and the highest point of land in Esquimalt, providing a panoramic view;

Saxe Point – is a popular waterfront park with amazing vistas of Juan de Fuca Strait and the Olympic Mountains;

Esquimalt Gorge Park – winding along the Gorge waterway, you’ll find playgrounds, paths also native plants and waterfowl unique to the region;

Macaulay Point – is an 18 acre park popular with birdwatchers, hikers and dog walkers.  You will find bunkers, lookouts and defensive berms that attest to the military history of early Esquimalt;

Fleming Beach – has rock faces and cliffs which are popular with rock climbers as well as a small beach and boat launch;

West Bay Walkway – follows the shoreline and provides views of Victoria and the Inner Harbour and the Olympic Mountains;

Archie Browning Sports Centre – houses an arena, curling rink and lounge areas, and

Esquimalt Recreation Centre – featuring a 25 metre pool and multi-purpose building.

The face of Esquimalt is changing.  While the military base continues to be a defining factor in the community, it’s gaining a positive reputation as a place where people want to live because of its proximity to Victoria, many beaches and waterfront properties, and the friendly atmosphere of a small town.